Bangkok, Oriental City

by - Friday, April 02, 2010

The first and last stop of our R&R, and quite possibly my only chance to see this major hub of not only Asia’s but indeed the world’s activities. The first time we stopped there was before our arrival to Kathmandu, where I was afforded the best amenities of an airport hotel, which we incidentally had to rent by the hour. Supply and demand, right? Not a bad deal to catch some quick z’s and walk to your departure gate after breakfast in the morning. I seriously doubt that is what visitors come to Bangkok for, though, which is why this last trip -pitifully undertaken after being nearly two years in Nepal- is necessary, mostly to travel within the area while we still can. 

An airport alone can tell you a lot about a city. It can tell you in a way how the city itself is run, sometimes even the country. It will reflect modern trends or traditional, sometimes a blend of both. Kathmandu Airport has always been good to us, and we have never had issues with the officials here - they have always treated us well (especially the boys), and we will always remember that. We probably won’t care to remember the airport itself, which is old and dingy by modern standards and not comparable in terms of operations to an even mediocre airport of a smaller city anywhere in the west. You can tell that a lot of work needs to be done in Kathmandu the moment you step off the plane. Bangkok -unlike Delhi, our airport from hell- is quick, easy, and convenient. I can do without them photographing me on departure and arrival, but I guess that’s part of the plan.

First, a taxi into the city. The shiny taxis at the airport come in pink and green and red, a colorful omen of what is to come. But these taxis are well-maintained Japanese cars, so we feel good about our chances. The taxi drivers are clumsy with our stroller. Understandable, that thing is a double stroller designed to hold two kids. We’ve put that stroller through hell, and come summer it will be junkyard time for it, but here we need to keep this stroller in tact - the boys will have to be controlled here in Bangkok’s streets. Bangkok’s streets being solid, the problem lies with the sidewalks. Not good. I hate a city lacking good sidewalks. I hate them even more in Bangkok, because it will see me hauling that stroller -sometimes with both boys in it- up and down curbs, stairs, into trains, you name it. We arrive after about an hour or so and are already getting a sound idea of how big this city really is. So far, Bangkok is a simple skyline dotted with scrapers that go high and higher. There are still so many cranes there, so we know this city isn’t done growing yet. The recession has slowed these people down maybe, but hardly stopped them.

The Conrad Hotel, just one of a hundred such skyscrapers, is our destination, and we are checked in quickly, although people need to slobber over the boys a little first. Par for the course. That’s Asia for you. These kids have already had so much blistex applied to their little behinds that I can’t help but worry just a little. That’s royal treatment they will want to get used to.

The Conrad is smack in the middle of Bangkok, conveniently close to many restaurants and stores - your bloated shopping mall, in other words. What we don’t know yet is that there is a carnival going on a block down the road, and the boys will enjoy every bit of it later. For now, it will be Burger King (that’s right, whopper for me) and night-night.

The next morning we go to Underwater World, a quick train ride and walk away. The stroller grinds through the sidewalks of Bangkok, we need to create room to pass the numerous street vendors (awesome food!), and people here, God bless them, leave us plenty of room. It’s cute, though, watching people’s reactions when they see something so unusual. Here comes a stroller with one toddler in the front and a baby in the back, both blonde and white as snow, so they start fawning. I love their smiles when they see the boys, there is so much happiness and love in those faces. The boys, of course, have other plans which means they can only stop for so many people. We put this affection for them to good use, no dispute there. We must be creative to squeeze through this town.

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