Zanzibar: The Country within a Country
It doesn't take the traveler long to notice that Zanzibar is not related to the place you just left when you boarded Dar es Salaam, despite its obvious affiliation and common language. Approaching the town by sea, you can't help but think that this place has more of an old world vibe to it than Dar.
I've often heard the term semi-autonomous being used to describe the region, and that would be, literally, half (or semi) right in a literal sense. The place has its own flag. Its historic influences are quite different from the mainland in that Zanzibar was, until fairly recently, ruled by the sultan of Oman, of all people.
Whereas Dar often seems like a conglomeration of buildings hastily assembled in order to loan it an air of legitimacy, Zanzibar seems less likely to be lacking for an identity. The question you have is which one. Overlooking Zanzibar from the ferry, you think of an old European port town, just one of many created by any of the old sea powers, in this case Portugal. The old buildings with a distinct Arabic flare obviously throw a monkey wrench into the European theory. And then there is the Indian influence adding to the European, Arabic and Swahili touches, all distinctly separate forces working its magic over the years, all over a small island largely known for its spices.
But that alone doesn't account for Zanzibar's appeal to its many tourists. Ask most tourists why they come to Zanzibar, and they are not too sure themselves. For a great fraction of them, it's the name and the exotic ring to it, not unlike Timbuktu or Kathmandu. Zanzibar. The name itself promises a different experience and sounds better than the Arabic Dar es Salaam or the rather ordinary sounding Dutch name of Windhoek by comparison. I'm certain the name in itself has made billions for Zanzibar. The profits to be made by merely a name. Right, Coca Cola?
We scratch our heads the moment we are herded to the passport control on shore. Okay, we are thinking. Maybe the place is a little more than semi-autonomous. Before we hop into our waiting taxi, we look at the shore that resembles D-Day with its numerous boats of all shapes and sizes anchored close to shore. Fully clothed young boys and men return the charge of the waves with a charge of their own.
One of the first places we pass is Mercury's restaurant, named after Farrokh (or Farid) Bulsara, aka Freddie Mercury, Zanzibar's most famous son. Inside and out, the place is adorned with Freddie Mercury and Queen photos. The name alone is guaranteed to attract plenty of visitors at what is otherwise an ordinary bar and restaurant. Par for the course in a place called Zanzibar. The place where Mercury first lived around the corner is not too far away and is referred to as the Mercury House. I still wonder why there isn't a more elaborate shrine for such a rock legend.
One of the first places we pass is Mercury's restaurant, named after Farrokh (or Farid) Bulsara, aka Freddie Mercury, Zanzibar's most famous son. Inside and out, the place is adorned with Freddie Mercury and Queen photos. The name alone is guaranteed to attract plenty of visitors at what is otherwise an ordinary bar and restaurant. Par for the course in a place called Zanzibar. The place where Mercury first lived around the corner is not too far away and is referred to as the Mercury House. I still wonder why there isn't a more elaborate shrine for such a rock legend.
Later we wander the streets of Stone Town, the old town within Zanzibar City, and of course you will find the typical tourist dives and shops selling the usual kitsch. Liebi, more than anything, is interested in its antique shops. Zanzibar has some incredibly artistic craftsmen.
The stray cats look absolutely pathetic. Several of them pass us with only one eye, although this doesn't stop the boys from harassing them. We pass the old fort and ever prominent House of Wonders with its conspicuous high tower, both remnants of Omani rule. The vendors and tour guides are relentless in hawking their goods and services.
The fact that we stay in a fully furnished government owned house that has its own cook, car, and security is obviously a plus. The place reminds me of the Robin Masters estate in the 80's TV hit series Magnum P.I. with its manicured lawns and easy beach access. Any time, I expect Higgins, the British caretaker, to patrol the place with Zeus and Apollo, his trusted Doberman pincers. The location couldn't be more perfect. We have drinks at sunset.
Aside from its foreign influences, it's still obvious from dealing with people that Zanzibar has a completely different vibe from the mainland. People in general seem more laid back and happy to be here, compared to the survival mode most people must display in the much bigger Bongo, or Dar es Salaam.
And even so, I still don't think Zanzibar is more than a side feature for anybody's vacation, or really what it was for us, which is a weekend trip. The beaches are quite nice in some areas, but there are other beaches you can have elsewhere for a fraction of the price. Again, it's the name that sells. People love paying for the brand. It sounds better to say that you were in Zanzibar than if you were in, say, Free Town.
Still a nice place, without a doubt.
0 comments