Vienna Zentralfriedhof: As exciting as a Cemetery

by - Tuesday, August 11, 2020

One thing we couldn't miss in Vienna was the Albertina Museum. This is one of the museums in the world where you could remove all the paintings and still charge admission for viewing the building alone. 

Whereas the ideology between the Hapsburg Empire and the Republic of Austria might have differed, one crucial opinion was shared, which was the preservation of both the building and the unique art collection it held once the Albertina was handed over to the democratic rabble of Vienna. The art museum turns out to be a winner with adults and kids alike. The boys take their time viewing the Picassos, while I re-discover native son Oskar Kokoschka's works. There's pop art featuring Warhol and Liechtenstein, plus a wing for photography. There are pictures by Dürer (hardly modern art, and yet it still captures the spirit of the place), Monet, Manet, and Toulouse-Lautrec. There is The Blue Rider Group represented by Kandinsky, Macke, and Marc. The Albertina is in the top tier of the world's art museums, we all agree.

Now one of our last sites is a little unusual. We visit a place that has more people (three million) than Vienna itself, is still within city limits, and is spread out over two and a half square kilometers (how's that for population density? Eat your heart out, Mumbai.). The fact that all three million people are actually dead shouldn't discourage the visitor. We are talking about Vienna's famed Zentralfriedhof, or the main cemetery. Vienna itself refers to the cemetery as "half as big as Zürich, but with twice the excitement!" Feel free and fire back at any time, Zürich. At least you have more money in your banks.

Okay, so it'll take you a half hour to get out there by train (the 11 or 71 tram will take you there), and you'll need a map on your cell if you want to know your way around. Who would you be looking for at the Viennese main cemetery? The musicians, of course! Mozart is actually not buried at the Zentralfriedhof, yet Vienna will be damned if they let any town upstage them when it comes to Amadeus monuments or memorabilia. Beethoven was buried here, and Schubert, true to his final request, is buried next to Beethoven. Around the corner is Brahms. For more modern music, there's Udo Jürgens, famed singer and songwriter in Austria. Finally, there's Johann Hölzel, who died at the tender age of 40. You might know him better as Falco. 

What do we forego in Vienna? The Spanish Riding School, a Danube cruise, the Zoo, and the Belvedere Palace (I know, right? The cemetery first.), among other things. Like I said, Vienna in three days with kids is a task in itself. No complaints here. Vienna was as gorgeous as advertised. Danke schön, Wien. And congratulations, Austria. Liebi now has a new favorite country, as she tells me on our way to Salzburg.

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