Czech Republic: A Tour of Prague

by - Wednesday, July 22, 2020

Okay, now that the kids got the first pick of Prague, it's time for the adults to get their culture dose in.

One thing I rarely do is hire tour guides. Most things I like or seek in a town or country are rarely the most popular sites. In Prague, for example, the one thing that fascinates me the most is that this is where "The Butcher of Prague," Reinhard Heydrich, aka the nastiest nazi and arguably person ever to walk the earth, found an inglorious end at the hand of two Czech nationals who had been trained by the British Secret Service. I wanted to see the place where it happened and the site of the standoff, or the church where it ended for the Czech patriots. Here I just imagined the place being surrounded by Nazis, like Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and their futile shootout with the federales. In Ireland, people like the Cliffs of Moher and the green hills while I am looking for the old battlefields of the Anglo-Irish war. The problem is, I am never on my own, so I need to compromise.

Enter, Sara, Prague's coolest tour guide. We meet at Wenceslas Square where millions of people demonstrated during the Velvet Revolution before the iron curtain fell and Czechs were allowed some say as to how they wished to spend their lives. Looking down the square out to the National Museum, I can see how they could fit all of those people in here. This is the stuff I like to see. The kids dignify this with a decisive zzzzzzz.

Next, we backtrack to where we were the day before, around the corner from the astronomical clock. We see church towers, sculptures, gorgeous buildings...and almost overlook the crosses we are literally standing on. This is Martyr Square, as I call it, or Old Town Square, where 27 Czechs met their untimely death in the name of the Habsburg Empire in 1911. Their names are etched in a nearby wall. Prague, as you would expect from any European metropolitan region, is not without its bloodshed. The kids' ears perk at hearing that somebody was actually beheaded here. But, alas. No Avengers, no interest.

Next, it's off to Paris Street, the Boardwalk of Prague in the Jewish Quarters. This is where the who's who of the town live. Asked just who the rich and famous in Prague are, Sara replies, "People who can afford it. Usually Russians and Chinese." You'll be pressed to find a native of Prague living here. We are brought to the most famous synagogue in Prague, and I count the cameras around it. Holy smoke, there is more surveillance here than at the Central Bank in Frankfurt where we live. We come across the familiar golden stepping stones in Prague, which we already know from German cities, and for the first time the boys show genuine interest. Sara says there are maybe 10,000 Jews left in Prague.

Arguably the most famous site outside of Prague Castle, the Charles Bridge, is saved for last. This is a pedestrian-only bridge with dozens of saints flanking the walkway. The boys might admire this on a photo one day and ask about it. As a teen and tween, though, they care as much about this tourist-heavy site as an algebra lesson.

We end up at Lennon Wall, the graffiti wall that revolutionaries used to spray messages in the not so good old days of communism pre-1989. Spoiler alert: despite his large image there, Lennon never visited the wall himself. This is one photo op I still can't resist, and this is where Sara and the rest of us part.

Liebi and I love Prague, we decide. The boys might brag one day that they were here. For now, Prague is one of many cities they have visited.

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