Frankfurt: The Three Castle Hike

by - Sunday, June 07, 2020

The following hike could have been the 5-star standard, the Mutter of all hikes, the Über-hike in a country chock full of them. I'm talking about the Three Castle Hike, or the Drei Burgen Tour. But no, Covid-19 would make it just another also-ran, albeit still a gorgeous package. But I'm ahead of myself here.

Again, for expats in Germany, or if you are spending a weekend or less in Frankfurt and are looking for a good hike, start by taking a regional train from the Hauptbahnhof (the ticket is 10 Euros roundtrip) or S-Bahn 4 to Königstein Bahnhof. Once you are there, pivot away from the tracks and walk as if you were going towards the town center, for beginners. I admit it took us at least a half a mile to find the telling Three Castle symbol that will guide you all the way, but you'll find it if you head northwest, or in the direction of Castle number one, Königstein itself, or the king's stone. When in doubt, simply follow the green hills northwest, and you can't miss it. 

Of course, Königstein is built at the top of the hill...the better to see the enemy with, my dear. Unfortunately, there will be no tour of Königstein today, courtesy of Covid-19. If you can live without castles and simply enjoy the gorgeous landscapes, then you'll be in good shape...and even in better shape once you realize that you are heading down one hill only to hike up another steep one! Castle 2 is Burgruine Falkenstein, more a ruin than a castle these days, but when you consider that Falkenstein was built in the 14th century, I think it's safe to forgive the ruins. This is where you tread through heavy forest. And although there won't be a tour of the ruins, we grab the next best thing. A splendid panoramic view of the Frankfurt skyline and its surroundings. Click, click, goes the camera. A family picture, just for kicks. Eat it, ruins. 

From Falkenstein, you head southeast to Castle 3, Kronberg, arguably the nicest castle and one that has been preserved so well, that you might just ignore the 5 Euro cover these Philistines charge, if the castle were indeed open for tours. Instead, we walk around the town of Kronberg and stop for a quick break. Kronberg itself harks back to the 12th century, the castle has been restored multiple times, although I will never know, since the place is closed. Oh, well. Looks like I'll have to save my breath for the long hike back to Königstein Bahnhof. If you happen to be biking instead of hiking and you have a little more time on your hands, you will be passing Frankfurt's second zoo, the Opel Zoo, a zoo with a little more space, almost a wild animal park, if you will. We're out of time, and it starts raining the very moment we pass the zoo, so it's on to the Bahnhof or bust and get drenched.

That's 13.9 km for the entire hike, a four and a half hour hike if you don't tour the castles, possibly seven hours or more if you go for the castle option, if and when they re-open. Either way, it's an unforgettable hike full of photo or selfie opps and gorgeous landscapes. You'll need 10 euros for the train ticket and possibly another ten if you plan to tour any of the three castles. Quite a bargain, I'd say. 

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