Arthur's SeatCeltic GlasgowEaster RoadEdinburghGlasgowHibernianHolyrood ParkKing ArthurLeithSalisbury CragsScotlandTennent's Lager
Arthur's Seat and Hibernian
On Easter Sunday, we had already more or less decided we were not going to celebrate Easter Sunday in any major way...but then again, neither did Edinburgh! Whereas Sundays are still holy in most parts of Germany (for labor, mind you, not for the church), Scotland, as it turns out, has far fewer scruples. Every store we see is open, let alone the pubs and restaurants. Okay, then. Business as usual. Nothing wrong with that.
Since Sundays are usually reserved for hikes or other family outings back where we live in Frankfurt, we figured a similar expedition couldn't hurt here. Leave the vehicle at home and explore. It starts harmlessly enough. Head toward Leith and from there take the alleys and byways toward Holyrood Park, where Arthur's Seat is located, supposedly the highest elevation at over 250 meters in Edinburgh, a city that is at or mostly near sea level.
The closer we head toward Arthur's Seat, the more we see that people in green and white striped jerseys show up. That would be the supporters of the home football team, Hibernian, who, as it so happens, hosts giants and league leader Celtic Glasgow today. A quick look at the GPS shows that we are a few blocks from Easter Road, the stadium. Fair enough, I'm thinking. All of those Edinburghers flocking to the stadium should translate to far fewer people climbing up Arthur's Seat, shouldn't it? Well, no, because every other Edinburgher not at Easter Road is actually heading for Arthur's Seat. And with the gorgeous weather out there, who can blame them?
I am still unsure where the name 'Arthur's Seat' comes from, although it seems to have connotations derived from the legendary monarch. I still have no concrete evidence that it pertains to the late King Arthur, although I am certain the hikers will ignore that bit of trivia on such a nice day.
As we reach Holyrood Park, there's a swan lake nearby and again those wide open lawns I admire so much about Britain's parks. Remember, on the continent, it's more about build, build, build, and maximize every square foot of urban public space you have. Memo to the European continent: less is sometimes more. This is one of them. There is nothing more liberating than the sight of a wide-open field within city limits.
We climb up Salisbury Crags first, the hill in front of the hill, if you will. We can see the ascent and that this should present little trouble for us. Once we reach the top of Salisbury Crags, the ascent up to Arthur's Seat looks more daunting. It looks steep, and the trail becomes slower, judging from the hikers. But we make it up there as well and are rewarded with some fantastic panoramic views over Edinburgh, better than what we had at Edinburgh Castle. The descent is quick and painless.
On our way back, we get lost and find that we must pass Easter Road to get home. Uh-oh, I'm thinking, better hurry, if we don't want to get caught in a throng of (possibly angry) Hibernian supporters. We pass the stadium and the horse-mounted police just before the final whistle and watch the fans all stream out, luckily most of them behind us. From the neutral looks on their faces, I sense a draw. There is no joy or disappointment. This is confirmed later at the pub. Nil all, or a scoreless draw, as the pub owner says listlessly.
The winners this day are the hikers up Arthur's Seat, I declare. Liebi and I toast to that over a cool pint of Tennent's Lager.
Since Sundays are usually reserved for hikes or other family outings back where we live in Frankfurt, we figured a similar expedition couldn't hurt here. Leave the vehicle at home and explore. It starts harmlessly enough. Head toward Leith and from there take the alleys and byways toward Holyrood Park, where Arthur's Seat is located, supposedly the highest elevation at over 250 meters in Edinburgh, a city that is at or mostly near sea level.
The closer we head toward Arthur's Seat, the more we see that people in green and white striped jerseys show up. That would be the supporters of the home football team, Hibernian, who, as it so happens, hosts giants and league leader Celtic Glasgow today. A quick look at the GPS shows that we are a few blocks from Easter Road, the stadium. Fair enough, I'm thinking. All of those Edinburghers flocking to the stadium should translate to far fewer people climbing up Arthur's Seat, shouldn't it? Well, no, because every other Edinburgher not at Easter Road is actually heading for Arthur's Seat. And with the gorgeous weather out there, who can blame them?
I am still unsure where the name 'Arthur's Seat' comes from, although it seems to have connotations derived from the legendary monarch. I still have no concrete evidence that it pertains to the late King Arthur, although I am certain the hikers will ignore that bit of trivia on such a nice day.
As we reach Holyrood Park, there's a swan lake nearby and again those wide open lawns I admire so much about Britain's parks. Remember, on the continent, it's more about build, build, build, and maximize every square foot of urban public space you have. Memo to the European continent: less is sometimes more. This is one of them. There is nothing more liberating than the sight of a wide-open field within city limits.
We climb up Salisbury Crags first, the hill in front of the hill, if you will. We can see the ascent and that this should present little trouble for us. Once we reach the top of Salisbury Crags, the ascent up to Arthur's Seat looks more daunting. It looks steep, and the trail becomes slower, judging from the hikers. But we make it up there as well and are rewarded with some fantastic panoramic views over Edinburgh, better than what we had at Edinburgh Castle. The descent is quick and painless.
On our way back, we get lost and find that we must pass Easter Road to get home. Uh-oh, I'm thinking, better hurry, if we don't want to get caught in a throng of (possibly angry) Hibernian supporters. We pass the stadium and the horse-mounted police just before the final whistle and watch the fans all stream out, luckily most of them behind us. From the neutral looks on their faces, I sense a draw. There is no joy or disappointment. This is confirmed later at the pub. Nil all, or a scoreless draw, as the pub owner says listlessly.
The winners this day are the hikers up Arthur's Seat, I declare. Liebi and I toast to that over a cool pint of Tennent's Lager.
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