Father Rhein, the perfect day tour

by - Thursday, August 30, 2018

Let's say you're in Frankfurt for the weekend, but you are looking for that typical German sightseeing tour. As much as I love Frankfurt, the city hardly exemplifies the Germany I've known all of my life. In fact, just looking at the skyline, you'd think you'd landed in the U.S. or in some Asian metropolis. Fair enough, because that's how Frankfurt was planned and built. Frankfurt's commerce dates back to at least a half millennium, so you can't blame Frankfurt for being slightly beyond the German norm.


That said, let's try something else. In Frankfurt, take a train (or even a rental car, if you insist) to Rüdesheim or Bingen. That's a 30-minute drive on the autobahn, maybe more if there's a traffic jam, a real possibility. From either town, book a 'ring ticket' for 15 euros per person near the ferry. Hop on the ferry in Bingen or Rüdesheim, then get off in Assmannshausen. Here you must resist the temptation of ordering coffee (or even beer) on the ferry, because you will be getting off the boat more quickly than you think. I would simply limit my activities to snapping pictures of the vineyards and castles around the Rhein. 

Now, once you land in Assmannshausen, get off the ferry. Liebi and I took our sweet time, since there were still so many photos to shoot, and we nearly failed to get off the boat on time. Once we did, we followed the path toward the Sessellift, or the seat lift, better known as a ski lift. And no, people, there's no skiing in these parts during winter with that rocky terrain, instead just enjoy the view and snap some more photos until you get to the top of the mountain. Liebi and I had to chuckle at all of the items the tourists lost along the way beneath us. At least a half a dozen caps, here and there a water bottle, but, astonishingly enough, no smartphones or wallets. Now if you didn't book the ring ticket and happen to be in good shape, skip the lift and follow the path toward the Niederwalddenkmal, or the monument dedicated to German unity from 1870-1871. 

At the top of the hill is a hotel and restaurant, also known as the Jagdschloss, where you can have lunch, if you reached the summit at the right time. If you arrived there earlier, keep walking and follow the signposts toward the Niederwalddenkmal. There are plenty of other sights along the way, in case you were wondering, so it's not just trees on your hike, as nice as they might look. There's a magic cave (Zauberhöhle), the Mauseturm (mice tower, but that's a different story) with a wonderful view of the Rhein Valley, and numerous other sites posted along the way.

Once you've reached the monument honoring German unity, there are several options. One, take a bunch of pictures or selfies. Two, hike toward the ferry in Rüdesheim or wherever the next train station or restaurant happens to be, or, three, take the cable car to Rüdesheim, where a bunch of restaurants and shops await you. 

With the ring ticket, you have a ferry ride to Assmannshausen, the lift to the top of the mountain and the Jagdschloss, the ticket for the cable car (Seilbahn) to Rüdesheim, and, in our case, the ferry ride from Rüdesheim to Bingen. 15 euros, right? Worth every cent. If you wish to skip the lifts (hard to do, with those views), then you will pay for the ferry only. Your choice. Either way, you can't go wrong. 

Did you know that I haven't even mentioned all of the wine producers in the area yet? Once you take the tour, that will hardly be necessary, because more than half of the landscape will be vineyards. In Rüdesheim, choose your winemaker and enjoy. This is the heart of German wine country. In all, this will take at least half a day. If you're not into hiking, simply take the Loreley trip, a four and a half hour round trip up and down the Rhein. Plenty of wine on board, so fire away. 

Questions? There shouldn't be. This is your quintessential Germany tour for the tourist with little time. The perfect weekend tour for the traveler who's landed in Frankfurt.  

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