Schloss Biebrich - At the Palace

by - Thursday, June 28, 2018

If you ever wanted to see something that could pass off as typically European, then this might be the perfect place. Here we're not talking lederhosen, the yodeling bit or the happy cows crooning in three-part harmony with the mountainous backdrop. We are talking about a primetime palace, built right next to the Rhein River, with all the bells, whistles, and baroque architecture that will suck any tourist into its orbit.

For beginners, find a parking spot you don't have to pay for. Nay, do even one better and just take a train to the Ostbahnhof Wiesbaden, or the eastern railway. That way, you have more time to hike through Wiesbaden, drink the local white wines and return to your abode with no harm done. If you must take a car, find a parking space well ahead of the Rhein river, like we did at the Rathausstraße. Granted, you might have to do the unthinkable and actually walk for a few blocks, but that's the small price you pay for European aesthetics.

There are many ways to approach the Palace of Biebrich, although we did it the old-fashioned way - along the Rhein, where we had a cheap, although unspectacular photo op before we turned the camera around and clicked at the spectacular front of the Biebrich Palace. Click, click. Two wings, about 200 feet apart, one for the prince, one for the princess. Now cross the street as you head for the palace, enter the grounds through the side, and you're in. 300 hundred years ago, you might have made it to the Palace grounds as an insect, today you only need a pair of functioning walking feet.

The palace itself was built in the year 1702, although it merely served as a summer residence for the Duke of Nassau. Hard to believe something as magnificent could only qualify as a summer residence, but that was the 18th century for you, I suppose. Once you're off the paved streets and wander toward the grounds and the fountains, the bridges and the lakes, your senses suggest that you might have traveled by rail, car or foot, although another part of your brain would put a bet on time machine travel. The only evidence we had that we were in the 21st century was the setup for an equestrian event to take place at the end of the month next to the west wing. Pass the grandstand and look over the grounds with the palatial rotunda as a backdrop, and even then no written word or picture could do it justice. 

The enormous grounds are host to sunbathers, picnickers, pet owners, or people simply looking for a time out from the year 2018, possibly with a good glass of Riesling and a good book. There are streams winding through the grounds beneath enormous trees, more walkways and paths that could turn a simple stroll into a prolongated hike. Out by the lake, there's another majestic enclave, the duke's man cave that was reserved for him and his hunting buddies, now merely a building that lays in ruins and isn't accessible to the public anymore. 

We take a break as we observe the ducks on the lake. One male duck is paddling through the water and gathering sticks for the nurse of his partner relaxing in the unfinished nest, almost ready to give birth. There's still the natural urge to provide on the grounds, whether you're a mallard or a grand duke. 

Once you exit the grounds on the northern end, you're back on the pavement and in Wiesbaden, ready to face the cars and the bistros of a busy town, the refuge you just enjoyed already a distant memory. 

MUST see. The baroque architecture. The grounds. The Rhein River. Good for a day trip and a picnic, or simply to call a timeout on the 21st century and simply disappear for a while. 

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