Mkoma Bay

by - Friday, April 25, 2014

For our first trip outside of Dar, we decide to travel to sleepy Mkoma Bay up the coast, a six hour car trip up the A14 Motorway. We would be staying at the Mkoma Bay Tented Lodge, a family owned and operated resort just outside of Pangani.

With the Easter weekend coming up, we decide this will be the ideal place to spend our first trip within Tanzania and make all of the arrangements in advance. Since our vehicle hasn’t arrived yet, we decided to travel by bus. That plan goes out of the window as quickly as you can say ‘flood’, and we learn only a few days before our departure that many of the roads outside of Dar have been swamped, while a few bridges have collapsed from steady downpours along the Tanzanian coast. This means we have to scramble to find a flight or face the grim prospect of spending a long weekend in Dar.

We eventually find a flight through Auric Air, a small company operating strictly domestically. Their planes are Cessna Caravans—small propeller planes that hold up to 15 passengers, tops. These little babies were made for little more than island hopping, which is exactly what we need one for. I can’t remember the last time I have flown in such a small aircraft. Usually, I don’t trust these small planes any further than I can fly them, but for now the Cessna will have to do.




On the day of our departure, we assemble the kids and bags, meet the taxi outside of the house early in the morning, and head out to the airport.

On board the plane, I am seated with the boys right behind the pilot, meaning we have an excellent view of the dashboard in the cockpit.

The first leg of the journey takes us to Zanzibar, a twenty minute flight that sees us cruising at no more than three thousand feet, which affords us the luxury of seeing Dar and the coastline from a safe distance. Below is a picture that shows Bash looking out over the Indian Ocean on our way to Zanzibar.

After Zanzibar, it's a short trip to Pemba—another landing, another takeoff, and we find ourselves at our final destination in Tanga.

Admiring the scenery from this little plane is spectacular. We dart in and out of clouds above the coast with its crystal blue water, forests of palm trees in Zanzibar, or the old wooden sailboats of fishermen heading out to sea in Pemba. I can’t remember the plane ever soaring above 5,000 feet, which is ideal for sightseeing. The water itself changes from light to a shade of darker blue, although you can still clearly detect the color once you distance yourself more from the coast. The Pacific, for example, I have noticed to be largely colorless—a murky, dark pool that seems to be almost frightened by its own size. So far, every drop of water in Tanzania has been identifiable by one of several shades of blue.

The wooden sail boats, known as dhows around here, are a treat in themselves. Although they might appear primitive by western standards, there is little doubt they are highly efficient and have probably been built for centuries, or as long as they have had trees and people around here. These boats add to the distinct local flavor.

And to think that this would merely be a preview of what we are to see in the coming days. It sure didn’t take long for us to find out how beautiful this country is.

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