After World War II, a lawyer and art collector named Josef Haubrich donated his extensive collection of artworks, including paintings from German Expressionism, the Russian Avant-Garde scene, and hundreds of photographs. For the citizens of Cologne, this was the harbinger of better times to come in the art world following the devastating anti-art stance as displayed by national socialism. Pictures that had been scorned were now accessible to the public again, in what is now known as the Wallraf-Richartz Museum.

Fast forward to the year 1976: Chocolate magnates Peter and Irene Ludwig, enthusiastic art collectors in their own right, donated their collection of paintings to the city of Cologne. Included in the collection were dozens of Pop Art artworks by luminaries like Andy Warhol, James Rosenquist, Tom Wesselman, and Claes Oldenburg, among others. The only condition the Ludwigs had was for the city of Cologne to find a home for them. 

Other than the Cologne Cathedral, I can't think of a more centrally located landmark in the city. The Museum Ludwig is the result of private and public collaboration perfected...and home to the largest collection of Pop Art outside of the U.S. Cologne, to its everlasting credit, couldn't have found a better home, or built a better building, itself a work of art that has visitors intuitively reaching for their smartphones.

By now, we have already been spoiled by the museums we had visited in Vienna, most notably the Albertina. If you are not an art lover, kindly skip this post. If you are, get to Cologne now. Like really. Well, maybe not. Cologne just shut down Museum Ludwig due to COVID, so your visit will have to wait until at least next month. 

Our trip starts in the basement, with contemporary art. It took me 15 minutes to take in Kiosk by Huang Yong Ping, literally a newsstand with newspapers that have been soaked and distorted until they have little more than the appeal of toilet paper, which might have just been the intention. 

The Pop Art collection comes as advertised. Here there is no distance between any of the pictures, it appears as if the city of Cologne was getting paid to cram as many pictures into one room as possible. Nobody in art makes me laugh like Claes Oldenburg (still alive!): his distorted figures, usually of objects of consumption like appliances, are as unique as they are funny. Also, Rosenquist and his use of colors have always inspired me.

Time to pay the Picassos a visit. This is the largest Picasso collection after Paris and Barcelona. Paintings, ceramics, sculptures, sketches, all of Picasso's versatility is on display here. The art connoisseur would probably spend hours here. With two kids, that is impossible, although, to their credit, they have always shown an interest in art. 

One little tip here: look closely for exits on the upper floors if you want to catch some fresh air. You will be treated to some of the best photo ops the city has to offer. It's very rare that museums offer that option for visitors, but then again, it is in their best interest to keep the visitor there for as long as they can.

Why does Museum Ludwig get its own post while the Cathedral of Cologne, the Chocolate Factory, and the Hohenzollernbrücke need to share a post? Probably because we spent more time here than anywhere else. You could easily spend one or two days here if you take your time. For museums in Germany, at least, this one ranks at the top.