A Tour of Edinburgh

by - Friday, May 10, 2019

Our first full day in Edinburgh will be spent walking, so there will be no wheels or guides - just us, the GPS and the sandstone buildings. This also means that the kids will howl in protest, but will learn to enjoy it once they realize there is no way back to their iPads and our cozy apartment...and they are eventually offered some passable entertainment of their own.

From our place in Bonnington, we start off past a cemetery and walk along the Water of Leith, the river cutting through our area. We just take the time and observe. This is not about how many tourist spots we can hit up in one day, although they will have their time and place. For now, it's a sandstone building here, a primary school there, every now and then an abandoned public building that screamed importance or even relevance at one time, but now is bolted and boarded up, a dive not even suitable for squatters any more.

Quite interesting are the parks, and how they are mainly used. It seems the Germans, for example, maximize their areas more, while the British are perfectly content in leaving large grassy areas bare. There is no secret formula here that guarantees success. British parks with their gardens are skillfully maintained and seem to be a haven for people who seem to enjoy a quick walk, with or without partner or pet.

Once we hit New Town, the suburban feel is gone, and the urban settings are more prominent. Here's a statue of King George IV (on Hanover Street, of course), of all people. The buildings rise in height while the traffic rises in volume. There are the typical boxy black city cabs roaming the streets, dozens of double-decker buses, and cars, simply too many cars. Luckily, there are also plenty of pedestrians that understand what a good walk can do for them and the environment. We start the steep ascent up to Edinburgh Castle.

You couldn't overlook Edinburgh Castle, even if it wasn't on a high hilltop looming over the city. Even as charming as the castle itself, though, is the rocky hill that features so prominently as its base and foundation, if you will. It seems each picture you make of Edinburgh Castle is 50% rocky hill, which, evidently, is the very reason the castle was built there. I would find it hard to imagine charging that castle with horses, and mountain goats never qualified as draft animals. And since people in the Middle Ages didn't give a toss about complaining tourists hiking up the hill a half-millennium later, the location is perfect.

Edinburgh Castle itself is not cheap, that's at least 60 pounds for the admission of the whole family. Included in the price of admission is the visitation right of the Scottish war museum, the Old Prison, and the viewing of the Crown Jewels. We are lucky that a wedding takes place up at the cathedral, complete with bagpipes and all. Impressive, as are the panoramic views with countless photo opportunities.

To give the kids a bit of a breather, we visit the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, a must-see if you have kids. That said, it's another 50 pounds right there, so we're already 110 pounds short by the end of the afternoon for admissions alone. This town sure isn't cheap.

From the roof of the Camera Obscura, I look over at the roof of a church, at least that's what I think it is until I see dozens of windows on the rooftop revealing office space. This is called The Hub, one of the most prominent features on Edinburgh's famous Royal Mile, but, curiously enough, it is not a church. This city is full of surprises.

We still need to walk back, although we use an alternate route down the Royal Mile, with its acrobats, mimes, and caped tour guides. Again, if you plan a long walk with children, make sure they are also entertained. And if they are tired of witches and wizards, ice cream will do just fine.

We have another item on the agenda later in the day, though. That would be the pub.

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