Hauptwache: Where Frankfurt comes together

by - Sunday, April 21, 2019

Every city has it. It's the one place where everything comes together, the bullseye, the middle of the spider web, the engine room. This is where the streets merge together, the train tracks cross, the newbies in town meet. It's New York's Time Square. It's the Piazza San Marco in Venice. Trafalgar Square in London. Tiananmen Square in Beijing.

Here in Frankfurt it's the Hauptwache, former site of the militia in the 18th century that was formed to defend the city. The Hauptwache building (translated: the main guard) still exists in the heart of downtown Frankfurt, a baroque building that survived the war and is now home to snack bars and a cafe, in addition to, true to form and tradition, a police station. It literally pales in comparison to the more modern, higher buildings surrounding it, among them a Kaufhof shopping center, a church (the St. Katharinenkirche) and dozens of modern highrises. Everything that is worth mentioning or a conglomerate of the who's who in business can be found in the area. The DAX, the German stock exchange, is nearby, as is the Goethestrasse, also known as the Boardwalk and Madison Avenue of Frankfurt. The area is inundated with merchants during the Christmas season and Frankfurt's Christmas market.

Even so, as busy as the action is above ground, there might be even more business underground or in The Hole (das Loch), as the locals call it. This is where all U-Bahns, or subway lines, come together. This is where you can catch an S-Bahn (Schnell Bahn, or fast train, mostly underground) to anywhere in the city and beyond. There are not many lines in Frankfurt that don't stop at the Hauptwache. This is where you'll find the most people in town racing up the stairs and even occasionally up the escalators. It's a favorite among the homeless, but also a favorite among shoppers and foodies. There's your KFC and Pizza Hut, your bakeries and cafes, but also a vegan restaurant with the colorful name of Che Vegara. The rent for the relatively small spaces is incredibly high, starting from 3,000 Euros for 30 square meters. This explains partially why not all of the rental spaces are occupied. At the Hauptwache, you need a good business with a good business plan.

Even with its significance for public transportation, the Hauptwache has long been known for its extracurricular activities, those designed to give the local commuter a break from the constant rush within the city. This is where you find the amateur musicians, the tobacco shops, the offices that sell tickets for your event of choice. The problem with their business? Ironically, it's the people (most of them) who usually don't have the time to linger.

Many of the locals complain about the lack of hygiene or oversight by local law enforcement (more irony, remember the police station just above ground), which discourages any serious business transactions. Looking at the place can be intimidating, the way you watch a well-organized army of ants. I can't judge the place - personally, I've always appreciated it. The Hauptwache still is, for better or worse, the heartbeat of Frankfurt, even though locals claim it may be in need of the occasional defribillator.

You May Also Like

0 comments

Blog Archive