Helau! Fasching in Mainz

by - Wednesday, February 21, 2018

For all of the traditions that Germany still enjoys, there is one that is often overlooked, especially by foreigners: that would be the carnival, the Fastnacht (or Fasching in certain regions) season in cities like Cologne, Düsseldorf, or just around the corner here in Mainz. Helau! is the battle cry or the greeting heard during the Fastnacht, especially in Mainz. 

Think Mardi Gras here, only in Old European style. Officially, the Fastnacht season is rung in on November 11 (11.11) at, incidentally, 11:11:11 a.m. and peaks in the days leading up to Ash Wednesday, or the days before Lent. Fastnacht, of course, includes the word 'to fast', and even the word 'carnival' has fasting connotations, as it is derived from the words carne vale (without meat) in Latin. This means that people were encouraged to their own special brand of debauchery before they were to pack it in and adhere to a more austere lifestyle for the next 40 days until Easter, Sundays not included. Of course, most Germans will do without the fasting part these days, while they have unanimously decided to embrace the more palatable (as in beer swilling) practices that are so commonly associated with carnival.

In Mainz, of course, the Rosenmonntagszug (Rose Monday Parade) is broadcast nationwide. Whereas Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York might boast a Michelin Man or an XL Mickey Mouse waving at the crowd, many of the floats cruising through the streets of Mainz are more political in nature, and would positively be outlawed at most parades around the world.

There is the Donald Trump elephant that features the prez's head and an even bigger trunk. A naked Angela Merkel following a less than stellar election last year. A defeated Martin Schulz, chancellor candidate for the hapless Social Democrats, whose head peaks out from the meat grinder he's been pushed into following his party's disastrous election results. A super-sized Kim Jong Un juggling with nuclear warheads, come on down. Syria's Bashar al-Assad, Vladimir Putin, come on down. Everybody gets a float, nobody is spared. Up next, Prime Minister May with her mouth firmly placed on a pistol (with the word 'Brexit' stamped on it) that is about to go off. There is Sepp Blatter, disgraced former president of FIFA, with 1,000 Euro bills peaking out from his belt line. The Facebook spider gleefully holding a cocooned, albeit blissfully numb, social network user in its clutches.

So, are we talking about a carnival of liberal freaks? Hardly. Fact is, people in Mainz could care less which party or affiliation you represent. Most of them are dressed as old Prussian and French soldiers from the 19th century, when the Frankfurt-Mainz region was occupied by outsiders. This was only the first parody of many more to follow.

Carnival goers can be dressed up as old soldiers, fools ('Narren'), be masked, or come as they are, which is particularly risky. Many nightclubs during Fastnacht enforce the costume code vehemently, people dressed in civilian clothes are routinely turned away.

The party usually ends after multiple parties and parades on Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday. For a nightcap, people burn a straw doll, the unofficial scapegoat that has supposedly soaked up all sins committed during the Fastnacht. 

Still think Germany doesn't do fun or parties? 

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