Heidelberg: Philosophers Walk
On Easter Sunday, we decide to scale both sides of the Neckar Valley.
For beginners, we need to consider the kids. As much as we would just like to drag them on an all-adult expedition featuring the Renaissance, the War of the Palatinate Succession, and the features of late Romanesque constructions, we realize that this does little to contribute to the overall morale of the family. Luckily, that's what God invented playgrounds and theme parks for.
We decide to take the Mountain Railway all the way up the Königstuhl mountain and pass the Schloss on the way up, which we had already visited the day before. As enticing as the hike all the way to the top of the Königstuhl looks, the weather conditions advise against it. There is a cold drizzle, plus the wind that increases with each meter that we climb with the railway. Our destination is not a mountaintop with the great scenic views of the Neckar Valley, mind you, but a small theme park called Märchenparadies, or fairy tale paradise.
The Märchenparadies is a medium sized park featuring rides that don't require standing in line. Do you have a coin? Toss it in! Here's a bumper scooter, over there's a train, there a ball spitting machine. My favorite displays are those of the most famous German fairy tales that can be activated with the push of a button. The only liability here is to the international traveler, since all fairy tales are narrated in German, I believe. Again, families with little kids: this is your parachute for moaning and groaning kids who can't appreciate the bitchin' happeningness of the Heidelberg Schloss or merits of the downtown Heiliggeist Church. And as a little treat for adults, you do get a bunch of photo opps once you reach the top of the mountain.
Another thing I have discovered about Heidelberg is that this town, quite possibly, has the finest Lebanese restaurant we have ever dined in, which is remarkable, considering we lived two years in Jordan and enjoyed some very fine dining there. If you've had your fill of brats and schnitzels in Heidelberg, try the Sahara near the market place. What makes them so special? The food, like the Falafel and the Dolmades, tastes light, classy, it's almost like the food melts in your mouth. Major props to whoever the chef is there.
And yet, even with the mountain railway and the most delicious Lebanese food on earth, the highlight still goes to a hiking trail we take once we cross the Neckar. Past the brass monkey statue we hear a choir huddled beneath the gate singing Easter songs (it is Easter Monday, right?).
After we cross the bridge, we take the Schlangenweg (cross the street; take the first path you see going up the hill), a trail that snakes its way steadily up the hill on copplestone while a high wall flanks both sides of the path. It's places like these that take you back in time, place like these that make Europe so special. The Schlangenweg eventually feeds into the Philosophenweg up the hill, also known as Philosophers' Walk. Up here, you can hike, bike, run, or simply take the best pictures of the city, featuring the Schloss, the river, and the old town itself. If you're going to Heidelberg, don't miss it. Great place for a picnic!
That's Heidelberg for weekenders. I think we're off to a good start here.
For beginners, we need to consider the kids. As much as we would just like to drag them on an all-adult expedition featuring the Renaissance, the War of the Palatinate Succession, and the features of late Romanesque constructions, we realize that this does little to contribute to the overall morale of the family. Luckily, that's what God invented playgrounds and theme parks for.
We decide to take the Mountain Railway all the way up the Königstuhl mountain and pass the Schloss on the way up, which we had already visited the day before. As enticing as the hike all the way to the top of the Königstuhl looks, the weather conditions advise against it. There is a cold drizzle, plus the wind that increases with each meter that we climb with the railway. Our destination is not a mountaintop with the great scenic views of the Neckar Valley, mind you, but a small theme park called Märchenparadies, or fairy tale paradise.
The Märchenparadies is a medium sized park featuring rides that don't require standing in line. Do you have a coin? Toss it in! Here's a bumper scooter, over there's a train, there a ball spitting machine. My favorite displays are those of the most famous German fairy tales that can be activated with the push of a button. The only liability here is to the international traveler, since all fairy tales are narrated in German, I believe. Again, families with little kids: this is your parachute for moaning and groaning kids who can't appreciate the bitchin' happeningness of the Heidelberg Schloss or merits of the downtown Heiliggeist Church. And as a little treat for adults, you do get a bunch of photo opps once you reach the top of the mountain.
Another thing I have discovered about Heidelberg is that this town, quite possibly, has the finest Lebanese restaurant we have ever dined in, which is remarkable, considering we lived two years in Jordan and enjoyed some very fine dining there. If you've had your fill of brats and schnitzels in Heidelberg, try the Sahara near the market place. What makes them so special? The food, like the Falafel and the Dolmades, tastes light, classy, it's almost like the food melts in your mouth. Major props to whoever the chef is there.
And yet, even with the mountain railway and the most delicious Lebanese food on earth, the highlight still goes to a hiking trail we take once we cross the Neckar. Past the brass monkey statue we hear a choir huddled beneath the gate singing Easter songs (it is Easter Monday, right?).
After we cross the bridge, we take the Schlangenweg (cross the street; take the first path you see going up the hill), a trail that snakes its way steadily up the hill on copplestone while a high wall flanks both sides of the path. It's places like these that take you back in time, place like these that make Europe so special. The Schlangenweg eventually feeds into the Philosophenweg up the hill, also known as Philosophers' Walk. Up here, you can hike, bike, run, or simply take the best pictures of the city, featuring the Schloss, the river, and the old town itself. If you're going to Heidelberg, don't miss it. Great place for a picnic!
That's Heidelberg for weekenders. I think we're off to a good start here.
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