Charleston, SC: Rainbow Row and Waterfront Park
The next
day in Charleston includes a long march—much to our kids’ chagrin, but to their
ultimate advantage—around the peninsula that starts at the market, winds past Rainbow
Row, through Waterfront Park, and eventually back to John Street and the
Children’s Museum.
First, we
trot around the corner to the city’s historic City Market, which features a who’s
who of the region’s artisans and craftsmen. If you don’t buy anything (we don’t,
save for a couple of low cost toys for the kids to keep them happy), you’ll
still see it’s worth the walk of about four to five blocks. There are grass
baskets, cosmetics, novelty toys, a hat shop, artwork, pretty much anything for
tourists and locals passing through. It doesn’t even have a flea market feeling
to it, although I am sure the locals are more than accustomed to it by now.
Traffic
around here is rather slow, in large part due to the dozens of horse carriages
passing it as one of their routine sightseeing spots. We actually consider
taking a horse carriage ride, but eventually pass on it after Bash points out
the laboring horses’ tongues hanging out while dragging a dozen tourists, plus
the tour guide with a whip in hand. By now, I am also convinced that this city
was built to be enjoyed by foot, more than anything else.
Next case
in point: Rainbow Row, a series of colorful Georgian houses on East Bay Street facing
the Cooper River. There are many theories as to how Rainbow Row was born,
chiefly among them the need for preservation. Supposedly, a couple of houses
were first purchased and painted pink, based on some old colonial color scheme
in the Caribbean. Before you knew it, other houses were purchased and painted
in various colors, like different shades of blue, green and yellow. None of
these houses, aside from their Georgian origins, look alike. One house might be
blue, long, and two-storied with window shutters, while another house four
doors down might have a thistle color, three stories, balconies, and an open
rooftop.
Another
myth that persists about Rainbow Row is that the houses were painted in
different colors so that inebriated sailors, whose ships were anchored in the
harbor, could remember which house they were staying in. These houses, which
had degraded to slum status nearly a century ago, were finally restored to
reflect Charleston’s history, as well as its typical architectural style, not
unlike the Single Houses mentioned in my last post. This is easily Charleston’s
most photographed site.
From
Rainbow Row, we cross over into Waterfront Park, where there is a pier, dozens
of park benches, a long promenade, fountains, and a playground, with Fort
Sumter beckoning in the background. Hats off to the city for preserving the
place. Like Battery Park the day before, Waterfront Park is painstakingly
manicured, with a touch of old school. In the middle, we break at a park where
there is a playground, an old basketball court, and a baseball diamond,
protected by a typical inner city chain link face that reminds me of the 1970’s.
It’s hard to maximize the park space as efficiently as Charleston has. And it’s
extra gravy if you have kids with you to enjoy it. Parents can marvel at the
facilities, the kids can play on them. Win-win.
On our way
back uptown, we pass the towering St. Michael’s Church (formerly known as St.
Philip’s), the oldest such edifice in Charleston. As luck will have it, a
service has just been held there, and worshippers are only now pouring out into
Charleston’s streets.
Break for
lunch, and onto the Children’s Museum, the kids’ reward for the miles long schlep
through Charleston at the behest of their parents. With the museum, the nearby
aquarium, and the numerous parks, Charleston is also an excellent city for
children.
For me, it’s
an excellent city, period, and absolutely perfect for a weekend. Well done,
Charleston. I can’t wait to come back here.
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