Schwäbische Alb – Going up the Country

by - Friday, July 15, 2016

For our next trip to Germany, we decide to check out a different place.

Instead of flying through Amsterdam this time around, we decide to go through Zürich. This gives us an opportunity to get to Germany quickly, albeit with the help of a rental car. The area we choose is in the southwestern state of Baden-Württemberg, home of the Black Forest and its thousands of coo coo clocks—very important to Liebi, who vowed to get one of these.

The Schwäbische Alb is in the middle of nowhere, although we are not easily deterred. In the days of GPS's in rental cars, we are confident we can find our way anywhere. What we don't account for are the number of closed roads we are to encounter. That's right, closed. Not roads with construction that produce sluggish traffic, but roads closed altogether. This throws a curveball at us that buckles as if it were heading straight for the high-tech GPS. In all, six roads are closed, and we finally make it to the vacation village of Lauterdörfle near Hayingen, a small village in the middle of nowhere. We certainly made a good choice.

The Schwäbische Alb enables us to make day trips, among these to Stuttgart (more about that in our next post), the capital of Baden Württemberg, and one of the economic powerhouses of Germany. In the meantime, we are to unwind in the countryside, enjoy some good food, and let the kids run wild on the playground, as well as with other activities, like foosball, miniature golf, and table tennis.

One thing you quickly notice about the region is that the streets are mostly narrow, the hills rolling, and its people very friendly and charming with their inimitable dialect. Germany just gets it. There is at least one bicycle path for each road, offering Germans a healthy alternative to cars. Although I don't bike myself, I run plenty of miles each day, and I can run as long as I want to, as the network of trails and paths seems endless. On the first morning, I pass at least three foxes and one full-sized buck in the middle of the trail. The combination of forest and fields is exceptional, the clean, fresh air a welcome change to the polluted air we have grown accustomed to throughout our years of living in various cities.

We chose Lauterdörfle, more than anything, for the kids' activities. There is a playground, plus a zipline that the kids use regularly, once their fear of it subsides. Bash starts going a few feet at first, and only when Liebi or I agree to push him. Eventually, I decide Bash can go further and push him from the zipline platform, although I hold on to the line itself. Once Bash sees that I am no longer holding on to the line, and that he is riding by himself does he decide that this is good, healthy fun, best to be enjoyed without adults, thank you very much. Axl, being the extrovert he is, barks at the top of his voice: 'EINS, ZWEI, DREI! HALLO DEUTSCHLAND!' before launching himself off the zipline platform.

Once a day we walk into Hayingen (even with the grumbling kids—'walk', to them, is a dirty four letter word), shop at the bakery or have a leisurely lunch, usually consisting of the Swabian cuisine of Spätzle or Maultaschen. Unfortunately, I also discover allergies I never knew I had. To quote Mick Jagger in 'Mother's little Helper': what a drag it is getting old. I grew up in a similar area, yet the German countryside decides to ambush me with a few well-timed allergies upon my return. Thank you, Schwäbische Alb. You were beautiful anyway.

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