That Old Man Rhein

by - Tuesday, August 26, 2008

As an encore for my latest tour of Germany, I and my wife and son enjoyed the beauty of the Rhein region near Mainz. This area was by no means virgin territory to me. Many times I have taken the trip from Cologne to Mainz, either by car or by train, and gazed out in wonder at the ancient castles on the hills flanking each side of the river. It is comparable to a good album. Although you know fully well what expects you, you still look forward to the experience.

An old classmate of mine, Axel (not to be mistaken for my son, Axl), generously left the key to his apartment in Mainz while he was away on vacation. This enabled Liebi and I to do a few things. One, save the costs of a hotel. And two, get to the airport in Frankfurt quickly (a mere twenty minutes away by tram or car) and without much hassle. I also realized that I have probably never seen a town with more playgrounds, which of course played right into Axl's chubby little hands.

Mainz also turned out to be a great city for sports. Being an enthusiastic and disciplined runner required me to set a route for the next day, which would include the crossing of the Rhein and the border of one federal state (Rheinland Pfalz) to another (Hessen). Only less than fifteen minutes into my run, I realized I would have to run farther than I had anticipated, thus setting up my improvisational state capital to state capital, aka the Mainz to Wiesbaden, run. This would take me a little more than an hour, and though the muggy weather even early in the morning made me pay the price in sweat, a gorgeous view of the Rhein from both shores was thrown in for free.

Another novelty (although by no means to the good citizens of Mainz) was the introduction of public sidewalk libraries. These libraries are public in the truest sense of the word. A small and dingy glass and metal shelf stands on the corner of a certain street corner, its stories lined with books old and new, and of various interests. Dostoevski or Grisham anyone? You simply open the rickety old door, take out a book and eventually bring it back. You can even contribute to its repertoire if you so choose. All of this without the expenditure of a single tax euro and an overworked grouchy librarian.

Eventually we would marvel at the the old ruins of a church or a castle, now converted into cafes or restaurants. There was a very charming little castle, formerly a prison, complete with the tower and everything, situated right there on the bank of the Rhein river, now home to a wonderful little bistro serving food and drink while offering guests chairs and tables outside with a breathtaking view of the Rhein. Good drinks too. German beer tastes even better with the proper panoramic views.

Only a few miles down the river is where the Rhein and Main rivers intersect, an impressive merger of two major rivers that will prompt hikers and bikers alike to stop and enjoy the view. Take a picnic basket with you if you're in the area. I couldn't think of a better spot to chow down at after a good walk.

This is a delayed post about Germany. In the meantime, I have been back in the United States for about four weeks now. The next blog will be posted when it counts...next month in Nepal, halfway around the globe from where I am now in North Carolina. I can hardly wait for it. From the lowest point on earth (Dead Sea) to the highest (Himalayas). How's that for extremes?

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